Restaurants

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Bogota is a unique and beautiful city. The mountains covered with forests and scented with eucalyptus pour into the city. At the end of a street you can see a vertical green rise of thousands of feet. The city itself is 8,612 feet above sea level, the third highest capital city in South America after La Paz and Quito. One walks slowly in Bogota. There are virtually no tourists.  Its eight million residents bustle and know how to eat and party.

We are very fortunate to have a great graduate there, Daniel Castano. We had dinner with Daniel at a wonderful restaurant Arcanos Mayores which oozed local color. A mother and daughter cooked with flair and real home feeling. The kitchen was the center of the restauant and the tables surrounding it were colorfully tiled. Even the second floor tables were placed on a balcony overlooking the kitchen. Needless to say, this was our kind of place.


As usual we started with the house drinks. We explored the exotic fruits and our favorite cocktail contributor was the lulu fruit. Not sweet, it was full of fresh flavor. To me there was a tinge of grass with a fruit feel in the mouth. They paired  this with their local alcohol and some grenadine and marischino cherries. It tastes better than it sounds.

The food products of Columbia are world class. To quote David Arnold our Director of Culinary Tech,(who joined us on his 2nd trip to Columbia), “they have the best eggs in the world!” The chicken was so tasty, I now remember what chicken is supposed to taste like. Aside from this, what they are known for is their meat. Most of the restaurants have the word Carne (meat) in it. We were in gaucho land.  And thank god, they are not an overprocessed nation.  Local is a way of life here.

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Brasil a Gosto

If you go to Brazil and want to taste its local products and cuisine you must go to Brasil a Gosto in Sao Paulo. The chef, Ana Luiza Trajano goes to extreme lengths to bring the cooking of the various regions to the capital city and it is very successfully done. In addition to a wonderful dining room reflecting the artisanal arts of Brazil, a few times a year Chef Ana Luiza honors one of the its regions. She visits the region with a videographer and captures the locals cooking their cuisine to bring back for her menus while also filming the food harvested in its natural setting.

When I was at the restaurant earlier this month the northeast coastal region of Paraiba was being featured. On the wall videos of the region and its cooking methods were projected prominently in the dining room. Normally there would be a flat panel TV playing these images. However in a bow to aesthetics and Chef Trajano’s immaculate attention to detail, she had a wall papered with jungle vegetation, then strategically placed large rectangles where the vidoes seamlessly found a home despite being huge and projected. This makes it easy for the diners to see and quite frankly captivating to watch. It was wonderful to eat these new foods and at the same time see how they were harvested and then cooked locally. The menus themselves were handcrafted, so I could not take one to report to you all the wonderful dishes but ingredients included goat’s meat, lobster, dried beef, native cheeses and beef.

We started with the bartender’s suggestion of a jabuticaba caipirinha. The caipirinha is Brazil’s national cocktail, usually composed of cachaca (a liquor made from fermented sugarcane), sugar and lime. The jabuticaba berry was in season and we were given a plate of the walnut-sized fruit to taste.  The berry’s taste was reminiscent of a tough skinned concord grape.  It was a bit bitter, which proved a perfect foil to the sugary caipirinha.

The amuse plate had many fried offerings but I was captivated by the grilled native curd cheese, coalho, washed with a Brazilian molasses then speared on a skewer. The taste was so addictive, I could have made a dinner just of those!

For my main course I had to order the Amazonian fish pirarucu. It is a fresh water white fish. I commented to my Brazilian friends that it must be a huge fish because my filets were almost an inch thick. It was succulent, sweet and delcious.  Yes, you should be jealous that I got to taste this delicacy.

Pirarucu

The desserts in Brazil are very sweet and very tropical.  Coconut is one of the more dominent flavors.  Here, we had a corn pudding flavored with tropical sugars and coconut.  I can’t tell you had scrumptious it was.  Obrigada Chef Ana Luiza!

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Talk about lucky.  I had the good fortune to visit Rio this month and aside from its outstanding beauty, infectious warmth and gorgeous weather, there was the food. I didn’t expect to encounter such new tastes and fabulous restaurants. I was ready to move there after four days of bliss!

First of all, Brazil is known for its juices. The natives of Rio (called Cariocas) were pushing their orange juice. It is delicious though I do think Florida juicers rival them on citrus, but their passionfruit, acai, and cashew juice (pictured left), really give your palate a wake up call. In fact down here, I am ready to squeeze aside wine and beer for these exotic drinks! Okay, I  will admit I like to also add their native alcohol  Cachacha which gives a little punch.

Another thrill was going for Brazilian Bar B Que. I don’t know how these restaurants started but the parades of meats that descend on the table every four and a half minutes had us reeling, they were superb and plentiful. The restaurant even gives each person a little sign: face up is green and means, ” Yes, more please!”, but face down is red and means “No, I give up!”

Our friends took us to Porcao, billed as the best BBQ in the world. It is definitely up there. The view wins hands down- we could see the lagoon, Sugar Loaf mountain and the iconic Christ statue. The tropical beaches surrounded us.

Now back to the food! I must say the sirloin was the best I ever tasted. I had never seen a sword of chicken hearts so tantalizing nor a rump steak taste so tender. What was the most curious was that even though this was a meat extravaganza, the restaurant also had a sushi bar and huge buffet with salads, salamis and shrimp!  I get it now. Brazil prides itself on its diversity of people but it is the diverse offerings in the restaurants that capture their appetites.

The Sword of Chicken Hearts, Porcao

The International Culinary Center's Tony Garcia and the Rump Steak

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Cesare, Emily, Dorothy and other luminaries at Opening Ceremony

SF Chefs was an event held the first weekend of August in San Francisco, celebrating the finest restaurants in the city. As the International Culinary Center of California we joined in the fun and had a table at the Union Square tent. We were thrilled to be side by side with such dynamic restaurants as Boulevard, Waterbar and Frances!

Melissa Perello of Frances

Nancy Oakes (Boulevard) and Joyce Goldstein

Cesare Casella, our Dean of Italian Studies happened to be out at our school that week, and became The International Culinary Center of California’s main attraction at the event. We served his scrumptious food to alert all that our west coast campus will be adding Italian classes to its roster.  We were honored to be asked to give a demo to the crowd.  Cesare kept it simple making Pasta al Pomodoro but even with something so simple, I learned a new technique. Cesare always uses canned whole Marzano tomatoes (they are sweeter) and crushes them with his hands.  He adds them to sweating white onions and lets it cook a while.  Then he throws the spaghetti directly into the tomatoes and lets it cook that way. One pot cooking.  Tons of basil are added just before coming off the fire.  Sharp Pecorino cheese finished off the dish. Delicious! Cesare as usual charmed everyone.

Cesare Casella

Interview with Liam Mayclem, "The Foodie Chap"

Cesare and I were thrilled to be at the opening ceremony and help cut the cake, which depicted the skyline of this marvelous food city. It was fun to stand next to Mourad Lahlou from Aziza and our Dean and Pastry doyenne of SF, Emily Luchetti. Thank you San Francisco for welcoming us with open arms!

If you plan on visiting San Francisco for  a food experience, combine it with this event.  You’ll taste a little bit of foggy heaven in a few hours.  Just remember it is cold in San Francisco in August…great eating weather. Under the tent you’ll find an explosion of SF’s best restaurants and wines. You will bob from table to table in a sea of food and drink amidst an amazing and sophisticated crowd.  It is an event not to be missed!

Gary Danko and Joanne Weir

Chantal Keller, Kevin Stuessi, Hubert Keller, Dorothy, Gary Danko, Cesare

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Chef Joshua Skenes

We are so proud that our grad, Joshua Skenes was named one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs this year.  FCI then had two things to celebrate on my visit to San Francisco last week.  We took the opportunity to toast the birthing of The French Culinary Institute/ICC (at the International Culinary Center) of California and Joshua’s great achievement.

Jacques Pepin and I hosted  a grand dinner for press and the San Fran chef community on June 20th, at Saison, Josh’s restaurant.  The menu was as exciting as delicious.  I love the simplicity of the restaurant and the fact that you not only peek into the kitchen but feel an extension of it.  One lusts after the Molteni stove. In the entrance alleyway, there is an outdoor bar with a brick pizza oven-like fire raging. (In San Francisco that is welcomed year round.) Josh loves to control the fire and play with it.  He started the menu with a slightly smoked California caviar. The bounty of the California farm basket was weaved in every dish.  Just look at the presentation!  And my favorite was the roasted popcorn ice cream. If you can get in, go there, it is fantastic.  And tell Josh Dorothy sent you!

(photos Marc Fiorito, GammaNine.com)

The pizza oven

Dorothy, Dean Jacques Pepin, Joshua Skenes

The French Culinary Institute of California Media Launch Event

Saison, San Francisco, June 20, 2011

Menu

Caviar

Wild Spot Prawn

Brassicas

Crustaceans

Pasternack’s Rabbit

Preserve Lemon

Popcorn Ice Cream

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On my recent trip to Asia I met up with an FCI grad.

Justin Toth recently arrived in Seoul to become the chef at Clock16. It is in the slick Sheraton Grande Walkerhill, a W hotel. Justin had never been to Asia before but that didn’t deter him.  Hailing from Long Island he wanted to see a bit of the world and have an adventure.  Seoul has a population over 12 million and the rate of growth of hotels and office builidings is astronomical.  He was recruited through Phil Gutensohn at the International Culinary Center’s placement office. He took the big step and is loving it. His restaurant is brand new and very hip.  His menu is delicious.  Check him out!  And he would love to see you.

Justin Toth

Foie Gras at Clock 16

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