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On January 17th, all the Italian chefs who belong to the Gruppo Virtuale Cuochi Italiani (itChefsGVCI) will be celebrating Ossobuco in Gremolata in their restaurants.

From Hong Kong to New York, thousands of pork shanks will be simmered in solidarity to honor an iconic Italian recipe. To find out more information about the GVCI and the IDIC please go to itchefsGVCI and click on the IDIC.

As a warm up to the great day, the Italian Studies program at the International Culinary Center hosted five Michelin- starred chefs from the motherland. That evening, the gala dinner was attended by New York Italian superstar chefs.

Below is a  glimpse of some of the demonstrations that wowed us during the day, and  of course the most delicious part of all- the gala dinner!

Pizza Master Domenico Crolla, Pizza with Mushrooms

Chef Jessica Botta, Master chef Pietro Zito, The Magic of Making Fresh Pasta

Master Butcher Simone Fracassi

Final plates risotto competition

Gala dinner, Kevin Garcia-'Cesca, Mark Ladner-Del Posto

Fortunato Nicotra-Felidia

Pino Luongo-Centolire

Fabio Trabocchi-Fiola, Washington, DC

Rosario Scarpato, Master Chef Gennaro Esposito, Dorothy Hamilton, Cesare Casella

Scallops in a citrus broth, black olive pesto, cherry tomatoes from Vesuvius and puntarelle with Cetara anchovies

Acquerello Carnaroli with Montoro onion cream, Smoked swordfish fillets, lemon & chili scented crispy seaweed, mantecato with Grana Padano

Mixed pasta minestra with reef fish and crustaceans

Cod, whipped potatoes & ginger, dried fruit, anchovies colatura

Neapolitan rum soaked yeast cake

And lived to type about it! Nathan Myhrvold was visiting The International Culinary Center and celebrating his masterpiece, Modernist Cuisine. He was playing around with a Vitamix, aerating wine (it works). He also gave real insights on common household products like Saran Wrap, which does no harm even when microwaved, however cheap PVC wraps do.

Of course the playdough of culinary technologists is liquid nitrogen. There was plenty of the stuff on the stage, set to freeze all manner of things. I made a comment that I was very wary about possible harmful effects if the liquid nitrogen fell on anyone. Nathan assured me that hot cooking oil was worse. Well, I wouldn’t want to experience that either! He then challenged me to put my hand in a tub of liquid nitrogen.

He and Dave Arnold were dipping their hands in and laughing. They finally coaxed me up there, Nathan took my hand, plunged it in and out faster than I could think…and I lived! My hand didn’t even feel cold. It did feel smoother. All in all though, I wouldn’t suggest you try it at home.

Cesare Casella is a prince of a man!  He is talented, knowledgeable, fun and generous. I didn’t realize how generous until he took me to The Center for Discovery in upstate New York.  The Center for Discovery and The Carrus Institute help disabled people live a full and gentle life.  Located in bucolic Sullivan County, two hours north of New York City,  The Center for Discovery is run under the visionary leadership of Patrick H. Dollard.  Many years ago Patrick realized that food is a key to rehabilitation. Knowing exactly how food is raised, stored and distributed could help the healing process of his patients.  He decided to start a farm. Today the farm employs 1900 people and  has herds of cows, pigs, sheep and chickens. The vegetables are grown biodynamically and the Center even has its own bakery! Many of the buildings are LEED certified and the roster of supporters are a Who’s Who.

Cesare with his passion for all things Italian met Patrick over a Chianina cow. That’s a cow with a Tuscan pedigree. Patrick was in love with them, Cesare had a few in Delaware county.  Cesare wanted a nurturing environment for his ladies and Patrick was happy to accomodate.  It was a marriage made in heaven.  Patrick got more than he bargained for.  He got Cesare, who has helped with the cafeteria, the bakery and the farm itself.  Cesare has brought some of the top New York City chefs to the farm and everyone has fallen in love with the mission.  To see a wheelchair bound teenager flying on a bungee cord is worth a million exquisite tomatoes.  This is a happy farm with some pretty special people and animals!  If you are up in Sullivan County near Monticello, check it out.

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With all the negative shenanigans in Washington and the seesaw world economy, I wanted to do something crazy myself.  So my female family cohort (daughter, sister, cousins) created  a pop up cafe. Pop-up cafe not all that crazy?..how about doing it  in Fourchu on Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, way out there in the Atlantic ocean. And on Atlantic time of course!

 Fourchu has 47 full time residents and thousands of delicious lobsters.  The season had just ended and the last 100 pounds of lobster were left in the harbor. We decided to create a pop-up cafe for lobster rolls to raise money for the community church,the new fire truck and the community hall. We put up local signs, were interviewed by the local radio station and had the pop up announced in local churches.  No one in Cape Breton knew what a pop-up was. That Tuesday evening at home, prior to the pop-up opening, we had a ceilidh (pronounced kay-lee, gaelic for party), steaming 30 pounds of lobster, singing, dancing and picking the meat. Our recipe was lobster, Hellman’s mayonnaise, diced celery and chives, salt and pepper.

Wednesday dawned and we got to work.  The cafe was set up in the community hall. The hours were posted from 11am to 4 pm. I brought playing cards so we could amuse ourselves in the slow periods.  It poured rain. Fog rolled in (did it ever roll out?) and we cheerfully got the tea and coffee going. When I left home I protected myself and the lobster from the elements but as you can see the locals do not take the weather as seriously as I do!

11 am brought no one at first but by noon we were sold out.  And then the fun started. We had to keep going to the harbor to get more lobsters.  People came in from all over the island. (Fourchu is 40km from the nearest quart of milk or tank of gas!)  We made delicious freshly baked ham sandwiches and grilled cheese. We also baked home made brownies and oatmeal raisin cookies. We went through close to 100 pounds of lobster, 135 hot dog buns and four large loaves of bread.

I used the playing cards to keep track of tables and we had tickets stacked up in the community hall kitchens. In chef parlance, we got slammed.  But since it was raining and this was Cape Breton, everyone drank tea, laughed and had a ball.  By 3 pm we were sold out of everything. Neighbors in Fourchu even ran home to supplement the bread and desserts. We raised over $1500 in a matter of hours.  In the middle of the ocean on a rainy day…not bad for Brigadoon!

For those of you new to my blog, you might not know about my obsession with lobsters.  My grandfather was from a small lobster village on Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia.  I spent summers there as a child and now try to spend as much time as I can on ancestral Cann’s Point, adjacent to the village of Fourchu. In fact, I am sitting there as I write this post.

A couple of years ago a fisherman friend, Gordon MacDonald, mentioned that people from all over Nova Scotia came to buy Fourchu’s lobster right off the dock.  He said the village had the best tasting lobster.  I laughed but then started to seriously observe my tasting of lobsters from Fourchu to New York City.  My gosh, was he right! I invited a group of New York chefs to Cape Breton to taste my village’s lobsters. You can read all about that here in Departures. Now I had to find a way to get our lobsters to New York. We had been working on that challenge for a couple of years when lo and behold, I arrived in Fourchu last week and found that Gordon and Malcolm MacDonald had figured it out.  They had a refrigerated truck, the documents in hand, and 3,000 lobsters ready in the harbor to be packed up and sped down to the Big Apple.

I watched and cheered as the lobsters were loaded.  Twenty one hours later they were in New York with Aqua Best, and tonight and next week Fourchu lobsters will be on menus at Oceana,Ed’s Lobster Bar and Blue Hill.  At the FCI on Tuesday night August 2nd, we will feature them on L’Ecole’s menu.  Make your reservation quickly…there are only 3,000 in town.  Canada has strict conservation of lobsters and will only allow a 10-week season for the Fourchu lobsters.  If you don’t get one that made it to town this week, you’ll have to wait til next May. Lobster season just closed up here.

Poached Fourchu Lobster, tomato confit, zucchini, Taggiasche olives, lobster-basil jus, Oceana Restaurant, NYC, Executive Chef Ben Pollinger, Photo by Noah Fecks

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When I started raising chickens twelve years ago I learned a lot about them. Firstly, and most importantly, I never realized that egg laying was seasonal. I also learned what being “hen pecked” is all about! Over the years I’ve had some jealous hens. One year I had Polish hens with fancy plumed feathers standing straight up out of their heads. But not for long. It seems the other girls in the coop were jealous and pecked those heads to scabby caps. Ugly. Watch out if there is a hen in the coop showing any sign of weakness. The other hens peck at it.

Aside from their pecking social habits, keeping chickens is wonderful and rewarding. A fresh egg is ambrosia. On a visit to my home a while back, Chef Michael Romano found out I raised chickens and his eyes lit up. After he heard that, all he wanted to do was make fresh pasta. He did and it was scrumptious!

Michael Romano making pasta

But now to the seasonality. Hens in the winter need to conserve body heat and so produce fewer eggs. When spring arrives the egg production soars! The very first eggs of a young laying hen are small and get larger as the spring progresses. They love to eat greens in the spring and as the antioxidants rise in their diet the yellow of the yolks deepen in the egg. As the summer progresses, their diet includes more insects, and the color wanes. In July and August as the heat increases, the egg production slows and is almost cut in half by the fall.

Commerical producers of eggs keep the hen environment “neutral” all year with heat, light bulbs and grain feed so the chickens do not know the delight of the seasons. It is worth finding a truly fresh egg and tasting the difference. Many farmer’s markets are now selling them. Buy’em! They are worth it but remember…they aren’t around for long.

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