And lived to type about it! Nathan Myhrvold was visiting The International Culinary Center and celebrating his masterpiece, Modernist Cuisine. He was playing around with a Vitamix, aerating wine (it works). He also gave real insights on common household products like Saran Wrap, which does no harm even when microwaved, however cheap PVC wraps do.

Of course the playdough of culinary technologists is liquid nitrogen. There was plenty of the stuff on the stage, set to freeze all manner of things. I made a comment that I was very wary about possible harmful effects if the liquid nitrogen fell on anyone. Nathan assured me that hot cooking oil was worse. Well, I wouldn’t want to experience that either! He then challenged me to put my hand in a tub of liquid nitrogen.

He and Dave Arnold were dipping their hands in and laughing. They finally coaxed me up there, Nathan took my hand, plunged it in and out faster than I could think…and I lived! My hand didn’t even feel cold. It did feel smoother. All in all though, I wouldn’t suggest you try it at home.

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Google is Delicious

We had the good fortune to meet Shannon Madison a member of the AIWF northern California board and a Google engineer. She invited our colleague Tony Garcia to bring a group of us to see the extraordinary Google dining system on their sprawling Mountain View campus in California.  (Our ICC campus is in a neighboring town). Let me say Google sets the ultimate benchmark for cafeteria service. They are smart, eco-friendly, diverse and most importantly delicious. Really delicious. I had one of the best sauteed swiss chard dishes I’ve ever had along with an antipasto tossed salad that was perfectly seasoned.

Perhaps you’re thinking, “well, rich company, easy job”. Logistics however, make it less than easy. Google serves over 10,000 meals three times a day. They have 27 full-on cafeterias, each with a different food profile. Some are Latin American, some health food oriented, some good old American hamburger centric. The food is sourced impeccably: 60% of it is farm to table and 30% of that is bought directly from local farms. They buy their fish directly from boats at Half Moon Bay or in futures from Alaskan fisherman. They smoke their own salmon.

The chefs themselves -there are 7 executive chefs- come from pedigreed backgrounds (the kitchen of Gary Danko for example) and their enthusiasm for what they do is infectious.Talk about a diverse clientele? From Barack Obama to Lady GaGa. Whoa!

Touring the Google campus

And then the campus itself is dotted with bicycles and clean cars. It took hours to visit just a few of their cafeterias. There are also 165 minor kitchens stocking snacks. They take their coffee seriously too. They stock at least three or more different boutique brands, including Bare Foot, Blue Bottle Coffee and Four Barrel Coffee.  It is mandatory that all coffees have a roast date of less than one week.  I wonder if you can google the cumulative caffeine factor that goes into each search?

That sunny day, the fresh California air, the youthful exuberance all round the Google campus… no wonder they get 1,000 applicants per job opening.

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Bogota is a unique and beautiful city. The mountains covered with forests and scented with eucalyptus pour into the city. At the end of a street you can see a vertical green rise of thousands of feet. The city itself is 8,612 feet above sea level, the third highest capital city in South America after La Paz and Quito. One walks slowly in Bogota. There are virtually no tourists.  Its eight million residents bustle and know how to eat and party.

We are very fortunate to have a great graduate there, Daniel Castano. We had dinner with Daniel at a wonderful restaurant Arcanos Mayores which oozed local color. A mother and daughter cooked with flair and real home feeling. The kitchen was the center of the restauant and the tables surrounding it were colorfully tiled. Even the second floor tables were placed on a balcony overlooking the kitchen. Needless to say, this was our kind of place.


As usual we started with the house drinks. We explored the exotic fruits and our favorite cocktail contributor was the lulu fruit. Not sweet, it was full of fresh flavor. To me there was a tinge of grass with a fruit feel in the mouth. They paired  this with their local alcohol and some grenadine and marischino cherries. It tastes better than it sounds.

The food products of Columbia are world class. To quote David Arnold our Director of Culinary Tech,(who joined us on his 2nd trip to Columbia), “they have the best eggs in the world!” The chicken was so tasty, I now remember what chicken is supposed to taste like. Aside from this, what they are known for is their meat. Most of the restaurants have the word Carne (meat) in it. We were in gaucho land.  And thank god, they are not an overprocessed nation.  Local is a way of life here.

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We were invited by LaSalle College to participate in a gastronomic fair in Bogota. We were so lucky. Tens of thousands of locals and many cooking school students attended. We spoke together the language of food. Words such as sustainable, technology and delicious were the worldwide ubiquitous catch phrases.

Academics and practicioners from all over South America attended. It was a wonderful chance to learn and explore what is happening in the food scenes in the Latin countries. Univerisities from Brazil to Columbia have added gastronomy programs. School food is an important topic. Native fruits, vegetables and historical cooking are passionately defended.

It was great to walk around the food halls and bump into famous Mexican chefs. We got to drink coca tea and find out that the acai berry from Columbia has more anti oxidants than any other. Once again the array of fruits boggled the mind. Stay tuned, you are going to hear about Columbia as one of the next big food countries.

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Brasil a Gosto

If you go to Brazil and want to taste its local products and cuisine you must go to Brasil a Gosto in Sao Paulo. The chef, Ana Luiza Trajano goes to extreme lengths to bring the cooking of the various regions to the capital city and it is very successfully done. In addition to a wonderful dining room reflecting the artisanal arts of Brazil, a few times a year Chef Ana Luiza honors one of the its regions. She visits the region with a videographer and captures the locals cooking their cuisine to bring back for her menus while also filming the food harvested in its natural setting.

When I was at the restaurant earlier this month the northeast coastal region of Paraiba was being featured. On the wall videos of the region and its cooking methods were projected prominently in the dining room. Normally there would be a flat panel TV playing these images. However in a bow to aesthetics and Chef Trajano’s immaculate attention to detail, she had a wall papered with jungle vegetation, then strategically placed large rectangles where the vidoes seamlessly found a home despite being huge and projected. This makes it easy for the diners to see and quite frankly captivating to watch. It was wonderful to eat these new foods and at the same time see how they were harvested and then cooked locally. The menus themselves were handcrafted, so I could not take one to report to you all the wonderful dishes but ingredients included goat’s meat, lobster, dried beef, native cheeses and beef.

We started with the bartender’s suggestion of a jabuticaba caipirinha. The caipirinha is Brazil’s national cocktail, usually composed of cachaca (a liquor made from fermented sugarcane), sugar and lime. The jabuticaba berry was in season and we were given a plate of the walnut-sized fruit to taste.  The berry’s taste was reminiscent of a tough skinned concord grape.  It was a bit bitter, which proved a perfect foil to the sugary caipirinha.

The amuse plate had many fried offerings but I was captivated by the grilled native curd cheese, coalho, washed with a Brazilian molasses then speared on a skewer. The taste was so addictive, I could have made a dinner just of those!

For my main course I had to order the Amazonian fish pirarucu. It is a fresh water white fish. I commented to my Brazilian friends that it must be a huge fish because my filets were almost an inch thick. It was succulent, sweet and delcious.  Yes, you should be jealous that I got to taste this delicacy.

Pirarucu

The desserts in Brazil are very sweet and very tropical.  Coconut is one of the more dominent flavors.  Here, we had a corn pudding flavored with tropical sugars and coconut.  I can’t tell you had scrumptious it was.  Obrigada Chef Ana Luiza!

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Rio: Part 2

I love visiting cooking schools in foreign cities. Senac is the most popular cooking school in Brazil. They school thousands of students in Rio alone. Senac has visited The International Culinary Center in New York many times and I was eager to see their operation. We went to two of their schools serving two very different neighborhoods. One was an upscale area but the other captured my heart.

We visited a Senac in what was described as one of the rougher neighborhoods in Rio. When I arrived at the school I commented that the tough neighborhood was very clean, neatly lined with cars and topped with satelitte dishes. I need to take them to the East New York in Brooklyn to show them a struggling neighborhood.

Well, this school serviced 7,000 students in Culinary, Beauty and other arts. Rio will host both the World Cup and the Olympics in the next few years and they need all the hands they can get. The government is investing heavily to vocationally educate the citizens. It was joyous and delicious to walk in their classrooms. The students had been waiting for us and had prepared some Brazilian delicacies for us to taste. We loved them! and the food was delicious. I think Rio will be gastronomically ready when the crowds arrive. So if you are lucky enough to get to the World Cup or the Olympics, don’t pass up the local food!

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